18th Century Edo Period Japanese Noh Costume Choken Gold Silk Brocade Kimono Haori Jacket

This theatrical kimono was made in Japan in the 18th century. The robe is made of purple silk overlaid with green silk gauze decorated with gold paper work. This robe, a choken, would have been worn as a costume in Japan’s Noh theater.

Choken Noh Costume
Edo period (first half 19th century)
Crane and pine design on purple ground; silk gauze with gold-leaf paper supplementary weft patterning

Probably originally a reference to a type of silk, chōken (literally “long silk”) were garments worn during the Muromachi period (1392–1573) by young boys of elite samurai families. High-ranking samurai gifted Noh actors with elegant chōken hitatare (long-sleeved jacket paired with a trouser-skirt) to use as Noh costumes; gradually the term came to mean Noh robes. Typically, chōken are made of silk gauze patterned with gold supplementary wefts. This robe is decorated with two sizes of paulownia flower in gold, white, peach, orange, and green on a purple gauze ground. Chōken were often used in dances by male actors playing elegant female characters, or as costumes for gentle male characters.

Noh theater has been performed in Japan since the 14th century, and is a combination of several types of performance arts, including singing and dance. When Noh theater first began, the costuming mirrored the every day wear of samurai. By the 16th and 17th centuries, the costumes began to differ from their original sources and specific Noh costume types that were originally based in passing fashion styles of the time of Noh’s origins became codified as classic Noh costume types.

Noh costumes serve a very specific purpose. The design and style of costumes communicate each character’s personality, intentions, and status to the audience, making these costumes an important storytelling device for the overall narrative of the performance.

Circa: 18th century
Origin: Japan
Material: Silk gauze with gold paper brocading
Condition: Some missing gold work and damage to gauze that was previously repaired
Dimensions: 44″ x 79″
$8,750